Playing guitar and tinkering are two of my frequent hobbies. Over the past couple of years, I've designed and 3D printed two guitar speaker cabinets- a 4x6 and 2x10 cab. These were feasible because I was able to 3D print one cabinet shell for a speaker in one go. Both cabs are loaded with Eminence Legend speakers in their respective sizes.Recently, I bought a Boss Katana guitar amp head, and it's become my main all 'round amp. One problem is it puts out too much bass for my poor little 4x6 cab. As timing would have it, Eminence Texas Heat speakers were on a slight sale, so I bought two with the intent of 3D printing a cab for them.I bit off more than I could chew. Not only would I have had to print the cabinet shells in multiple pieces, but the cost of filament placed the cost of the cab nearly $100 more than this Seismic cab cost, and that's under the assumption that none of the prints would fail!I saw another reviewer of this cabinet installed Texas Heat speakers in his cabinet with no issues, so I felt good about buying this cab. I was saving money and installing the speakers would be a breeze. Well....That's not how this little venture went down.As you can see in the photo of the cab's inside before I installed the speakers, the cabinet has steel inserts to make mounting the speakers easy. The cab comes with eight M4 machine screws that thread into the inserts. IF your speakers' mounting holes line up with the inserts, then installing the speakers is easy.The inserts DID NOT LINE UP WITH MY SPEAKERS' MOUNTING HOLES!! I blame the manufacturer here. One other reviewer didn't have this issue, and to return to my discussion about my 3D printed speaker cabs, I didn't either.As mentioned, I chose Eminence speakers for both, and designed and began 3D printing the cabinet shells before I ever received the speakers (all of them bought here on Amazon). I simply went to Eminence's website and downloaded the spec sheets for the speakers, using data from the sheets to place speaker mounting holes in the cabinet shells respective 3D models in my modelling software, so I wouldn't have to do any drilling to the prints. Each speaker dropped right in to it's printed cabinet shell and lined up with no issues when I got the speakers and the cabinet shells came off the 3D printer.My point here is if someone reading this doubts it was the manufacturer's fault, my argument is why did another reviewer not have this issue, and why did I not have issues with speakers from the same manufacturer fitting correctly when I, a mere basement tinkerer, designed my own cabinets from scratch?As luck would have it, I had M4 bolts and nuts and I REALLY didn't want to box this cabinet back up and send it back. I positioned the speakers in this cabinet then marked and drilled new mounting holes, using the included bolts with washers and nuts sourced by me. You can see by the photos that it isn't pretty, but it got the speakers solidly mounted.I chose to wire the speakers in series to get a total impendence of 16 ohms, but kept the wiring for two parallel speaker jacks. As I connected the speakers, I would gently tug on the connectors to ensure they were tightly attached to the speakers' tabs. Aaaaaand as you can see by another of the photos, one of the connectors came off it's wire when I tugged on it. Another obvious show of poor workmanship.Some of the wire connectors were properly crimped AND soldered to the wires, and some, like the failed connector in the photo, were only loosely crimped onto the wire. As luck would AGAIN have it, I had some near-identical connectors from wiring up the speakers in my 3D printed cabinets, so I removed all the connectors to this cabinet's wiring that weren't soldered on, and crimped on connectors sourced from my personal supply. I'll quickly note that as the other reviewer I've been referencing stated, the back of this cabinet will likely require a few very firm strikes with a mallet to knock it out after you remove it's screws, but reinstalling the cabinet back is easily done.At last, I was able to button up this cabinet and try it out. And here's where I can finally say something good about this cabinet: I like it's resonance and response.Low's are tight yet thump firmly, no sogginess or mud here. Mid's are very clear and enunciated. High frequencies ring out nicely as well. Simply put, I feel this cabinet offers a well rounded response to the Texas Heat speakers, not prioritizing any particular frequency. And that's what I wanted.Thanks to this cabinet's parallel jack configuration, I have this cabinet connected to my 3D printed 2x10 cabinet. With the Boss Katana plugged in, I'm getting some very smooth and balanced tones through this odd stack of mine.In closing, I hesitate to recommend this cabinet though. For all the modifications I had to do to this cabinet and hardware I had to source because of the poor workmanship, I may as well just have gone to Home Depot or Lowes, had some planks cut to size, and built my own 2x12 cabinet seeing as I've got the tools and hardware to do it. But, as you can see in the photos, the completed cabinet looks great sitting in the corner I've placed it in, and as stated, I'm liking it's response to the speakers I installed! I suppose that if you don't want to build a cab from scratch but are handy and have extra supplies around, then this cabinet is an option. Otherwise, I would say either build your own, look elsewhere, or buy a used cab and swap speakers.